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The FDA signed off on a new ingredient for sunscreen today for the first time in more than two-and-a-half decades.
Bemotrizinol, an ingredient used in European and Asian products, met the agency’s standards for protecting from dangerous ultraviolet rays while not being irritating or harmful to skin.
The popular ingredient often used in Korean skin products is a skin-protecting chemical that’s hailed by dermatologists as great for skin.
Skin cancer is one of the most common cancers in the US, with more than 5 million people diagnosed every year.
Experts have long called for approval of ingredients, such as bemotrizinol, that offer broader and more stable protection from ultraviolet (UV) rays.
The FDA previously only recognized two active ingredients — zinc oxide and titanium dioxide — as Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE.)
What is bemotrizinol?
Also known as BEMT, bemotrizinol is an oil-soluble chemical that offers protection against UVB and UVA rays.
While UVA rays penetrate deep into skin, causing premature aging and the development of skin cancers, UVB rays directly damage cellular DNA, which can create mutations that lead to basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma.
While bemotrizinol, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer broad protection and are approved by the FDA, other common chemical filters, like oxybenzone, are under safety review as their long-term safety and potential toxicity is unclear.
The newest ingredient will be included in the GRASE category as absorption into the skin is low.
It’s also photostable, meaning it doesn’t break down quickly in the sun and can last longer on skin.
Is bemotrizinol better than other sunscreen ingredients?
One reason why this new ingredient may replace your old sun protection is that it works well with other ingredients and provides a higher SPF at lower doses, according to some skincare experts.
“We have been stuck in the past, while the rest of the world enjoys superior formulas with lightweight, elegant, safer sunscreens with better protection,” New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Gary Goldenberg told Women’s Health.
The two FDA-approved ingredients are also often found in mineral sunscreens, which can leave a white, chalky film.
However, chemical-based sunscreens that dry without residue can irritate skin — and may not last as long.
Bemotrizinol-based products may be better for those with sensitive skin as they “won’t irritate their skin,” as dermatologist Ife J. Rodney told Women’s Health.
How to buy bemotrizinol sunscreen
It will be a while before you find multiple products containing bemotrizinol lining the shelves.
The first products containing the ingredient in the US will be sold under the name Parsol Shield and made by the Dutch manufacturer DSM Nutritional Products.
Then other manufacturers will be able to use the ingredient after 18 months.
“Americans deserve timely access to the best safe, effective and consumer-friendly over-the-counter products available,” FDA Commissioner Marty Makary said in a statement delivered at the end of last year.
