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How many Greek islands are there? Actually, no one can agree. Depending on what you qualify as an island (as opposed to a rock) there’s up to 6,000, with 227 of them inhabited. Scattered within the Aegean, Mediterranean and Ionian seas, essentially there’s a Greek isle for everyone, from off the grid (Gavdos) to large and historic (Crete) to the ultra-hip (Santorini, Mykonos).
Then there’s the islands looking to reinvent themselves. At the end of the alphabet, Zakynthos has long enjoyed (endured?) a popularity among Brits and northern Europeans, who renamed it Zante for easy reference. Now eschewing the bachelorette and budget scene, it’s embracing more authentic experiences and lodgings, leaning into its roots (it’s mentioned in Homer’s “Iliad” and “Odyssey”) and the rich heritage of its Mycenaean and Venetian inhabitants, whose architecture is evident in floral-laced villages.
The US market needs to tap into European hubs to fly there (or ferry from Athens if you are not on a time crunch) but the stunning 158-square-mile island is worth it, and there’s plenty of unspoilt scenery and upscale lodgings to tempt you on that long haul.
Helping the transformation is the hotelier Vithoulkas family, owners of the Lesante Collection, which offers three unique retreats aimed at moving away from mass tourism and into local immersion.
The original Lesante Classic hotel, which opened in 2009, is just 262 feet from Tsilivi Beach on the northeast coast, and is a perfect luxury retreat for families, even sporting a kiddie pool, while still offering a classic, refined vibe. (Rates from $255 per night.)
But for an exclusive adults-only sanctuary, head down the road to Lesante Blu in Tragaki. Opened in 2017, its airy, white, modern structures perfectly frame the views.
Backed by the mountains, guests can relax poolside or on the seafront and take in those vistas. Dining is in one of three restaurants offering local seafood and Greek specialties. Zakynthos is blessed with a mild Mediterranean climate with plenty of winter rain, and the local produce is delicious.
With 92 suites, most with private pools, the vibe is barefoot elegance. Want to make a real impression? Arrive by helicopter (there’s a helipad), or pull up in a private yacht. (Rates from $440 per night.)
But for my money, the best bet in Zakynthos is the Blu’s sister property, Lesante Cape, which opened in 2022 and has all the Greek village feels you could want. (Rates from $488 per night.)
A veritable estate, the 85 suites and 12 villas (all with pools) are built around a central square featuring dining, retail and a small museum. It’s all styled in traditional Venetian architecture that echoes the history of its neighboring village, Akrotiri, which once housed Zakynthian nobility and artisans. Its stone arches, bougainvillea, friendly cats, swim-up bar and swings facing the sea will make your Instagram complete.
Within the complex you’ll find plenty to keep you happy, including 10 dining options. Once a week, a traditional Greek dinner event at Taverna involves local dancers who’ll urge you into some plate smashing. Even better, since Lesante Cape sits within orchards, vineyards and olive groves, it also boasts its own organic farm, which can be sampled farm-to-table at Bostani, for heavenly dining.
Looking to house a crowd? New for this season is the Edge, a spectacular six-bedroom oceanfront villa with panoramic views of the Ionian sea, its own huge infinity pool and a stunning chef’s kitchen, perfect for you and 11 others. (Rates from $4,527 a night.)
Both Blu and Cape are part of The Leading Hotels of the World, so the five-star levels of service and amenities are top notch, including the use of private yachts for relaxing excursions around the island — a must to take in the beauty of Zakynthos’ pristine beaches and cliffs.
The most famous is Shipwreck Beach in Navagio, now only visible by sea, since accessing the beach via footpaths is now prohibited. It’s named for the rusty old ship Panagiotis, which ran aground in the 1980s, allegedly while smuggling illegal goods. She sits all alone on a beach surrounded by turquoise sea and backed by white cliffs — the colors make it a perennial favorite photo opp.
After all that sea air, sail over to Volimes and pull in for a delicious lunch at Nobelos, a seaside lodge and taverna on the water, and sample some of the excellent local food and wines while watching the waves. The owner will personally tender you to the bucolic setting from your moored boat.
All this good food and Greek hospitality leaves you relaxed and renewed. You’ll be in good company, too, because, according to legend, the god Apollo and his sister Artemis used to holiday on Zakynthos. Seems they have something of a good tradition going on here.
All hotels reopened for the season in early May; LesanteCollection.gr.
