Milan Fashion Week spring 2025 has just wrapped, and as Vogue Runway’s Nicole Phelps and Vogue contributing editor Tiziana Cardini report in today’s episode, it was a week characterized by a feeling of freewheeling joy. “Designers respond to what’s happening around us, so they wanted to push the creativity and spirit of positivity,” explained Cardini. “Every designer I have spoken to—from Francesco Risso to Simone Bellotti to Lorenzo Serafini at Philosophy—really wanted to address the soothing power of beauty.”
According to the duo, some of the standout shows this season included Marni, where Risso showed a collection made entirely out of cotton, treated in different ways that exposed the true versatility of the yarn. “He chose cotton because he wanted his message to be very direct, very clean and clear,” Cardini said. “But being clear for Francesco always entails some kind of whimsy and extra creativity.”
At Prada, Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons’s treatise against the algorithm’s flattening of creativity was also a standout in Milan this season—especially a leather skirt with circular windows that Cardini deemed the number one item she’d like to add to her wardrobe this season. Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno was praised for consistency in his tailoring, and at Dolce & Gabbana, Madonna was the name on everyone’s lips—not only because the collection was inspired by her but also she took it all in while sitting front row, completely covered in a black lace veil.
There were a few surprises in the week from unexpected labels, like Sunnei, which celebrated its 10th anniversary with a fashion show cast entirely with models of a certain age. The designers, Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, told Cardini that it was inspired by the fact that they’re getting older as a brand as well as the pressure as the years pass to try and become a billion-dollar brand. “They don’t want to grow,” said Cardini. “They want to stay as they are, doing the things that they like, the way they like.”
And if you want to find out just who is the designer who has revamped a sleepy brand in just two seasons and turned it into a cool IYKYK favorite, then make sure you tune in to this special Milan Fashion Week episode of The Run-Through.
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