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In all my Thanksgivings, my family has somehow managed to muddle through without the latest, apparent must-have — a sterling silver turkey drumstick holder promising to keep the turkey grease off my fingers, made by a European jeweler with 19th century cred.
Our dinners at home tend to vibe more Gilmore Girls than Gilded Age — lots of chatter, not too much ceremony. Nobody minds if things get a bit messy — turns out, messes can be easily cleaned up with a $2 cloth napkin.
But in an age where the haves have everything and the rest of us are left clamoring to keep up, why shouldn’t an elite antique like the Robbe & Berking Dante Drumstick Clamp — $569 for sterling silver, $372 for silver-plated — be flying off the shelves?
The ostentatious utensil — designed to clutch a poultry drumstick so the user can eat without dirtying their fingers — originated in the late 18th century, when it was considered “increasingly improper” to dine with one’s digits, Karolina Stefanski, silver expert and historian of table culture at Robbe & Berking, helpfully explained to me.
All these years later, the outdated culinary contraption has been enjoying a moment — largely thanks to popular reseller Houses & Parties, an aspirational entertaining website which was apparently founded by Sofia Coppola’s party planner.
After listing the cheaper version — urging shoppers to “hold your drumstick like a microphone and sing ‘I’m Henry the eighth I am, Henry the eighth I am, I am!’” — Houses & Parties wound up selling out of the thing; I managed to get my hands on the very last one in stock, or so I was told.
But first, I needed to know exactly how to use the thing. Myka Meier, an etiquette expert and founder of NYC’s Beaumont Etiquette, was only too happy to help — Thanksgiving is in fact the perfect time for something so unnecessarily extravagant, she assured me.
“It’s definitely not an everyday item — it works best when used sparingly so it feels special,” Meier explained. “This is the type of piece you bring out for a holiday meal, a themed dinner or a once-a-year festive moment when everyone is already in a celebratory spirit.”
Though I tried to keep Meier’s advice in mind when placing the first drumstick in the holder— “Keep the gesture smooth and effortless, with no theatrics at the table,” she’d cautioned — I initially had a tough time jamming the medium-sized end into the small circle of tines. My hands were instantly covered in herbs and drippings.
Turns out, today’s modern birds are simply too large — this one was, at least — to fit into such a dated device. After a slightly horror movie-esque break for some serious bone-shaving, I was ready to chow down on my pre-Thanksgiving feast, prepared by Chef Mike Jennings of King of Queens Soul in Astoria.
Once the downsized drumstick was properly secured in the clamp and the screw tightened into place, it was smooth sailing — or rather, smooth eating. The implement did add an element of elegance to the experience, and I did find myself sitting up a bit straighter, even if the whole thing seemed absurd.
I couldn’t help but think of the reaction of my family and friends, were I to whip this thing out at my next Friendsgiving or family celebration.
In their place, I had Chef Adrienne Cheatham to laugh at me — the former executive sous chef at Le Bernardin, who is also creator/co-host of The Chef’s Cut Culinary Podcast, couldn’t hold back her amusement when I told her about the tool, which she pronounced “gorgeous,” but “100% not necessary.”
“It’s giving 1920s opulence — which on the one hand I love, and on the other hand, it’s wildly expensive,” Cheatham said. “My initial thought was, it’s excess — not a need, maybe not even a want.”
When I asked the culinary guru what people on a budget who like the idea of this chic culinary contraption for their holiday spread can do to replicate its air of grandiose splendor, she suggested using cut foils or paper covers to keep hands turkey-free.
“They give you that dainty, ‘I don’t want to put my bare hand on the bone’ kind of thing — without spending almost $400 just for one (device),” said Chef Cheatham.
If you feel like shelling out that kind of money, you can still buy your very own $569 clamp directly from Robbe & Berking — but I don’t think you’ll get it in time for dinner.
And that’s fine, my etiquette expert assured.
“True elegance comes from thoughtful hosting — warm hospitality, a well-set table, and making guests feel welcome,” Meier said. “A silver drumstick clamp is fun flair, but it’s not what makes Thanksgiving feel gracious or elevated. It’s simply an amusing accessory for those who love a touch of theatricality.”
