Phoebe Philo has designed a logo tee. Not just any logo tee, of course. These are made with heavy Japanese cotton and feature imagery of specific pieces from Collection A, like a swath of a sequined dress or a tight shot of Binx Walton wearing the Peak sunglasses, printed underneath her all-caps Times New Roman branding. For a designer who’s rejected even the gold-foil embossed branding that made the bags she designed at her previous label so collectible, it’s an intriguing development—both a strategic move to establish an easier entry price point and an at-once blithe and knowing gesture, a way of saying, it seems, that this small label with a big name isn’t going to remain small permanently.
There are other developments here in Collection B, which will start arriving in stores in early 2025, but they’re subtle, in keeping with Philo’s careful, deliberate approach to all parts of her business. The pillow scarf has been re-editioned in a knitted style, the three-compartment Gig bag has been shrunk to a smaller size, and she’s doubling down on bold square-toe high vamp shoes, in addition to releasing sock boots and highly walkable thick soled sandals. Themes that she’s established over the last year continue and evolve: In place of the apron pant concept that proved so inspirational to other designers on the spring 2025 runways she styled tees with floor-grazing trains over trousers. An asymmetric hem adds swagger to a strong-shouldered coat, whereas the playful bustle that can be tied to the front or the back delivers more of the playful cheek that the logo tees hint at.
Other pieces that are likely to get Philo watchers talking include a shearling with 1940s proportions that conjured images of Old Hollywood stars and the full-bloom fabric brooch she’s pinned to the shoulders of car coats and trenches, a natural element to sweeten her strong tailoring. Another experiment takes the form of a (very 2020s) red logo-printed “shopping bag” made from biodegradable plastic. It’s not technically for sale—yet—but depending on where you’re purchasing Phoebe Philo you may end up with one to hold your acquisitions. Whoever scores one first, loop in the rest of us, won’t you?
Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo
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