Erdem Moralioglu reflected on gender identity, love, and purpose for his spring/summer 2025 collection. Drawing inspiration from the 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness by Radclyffe Hall, the designer paid homage to its multi-faceted characters—and Hall’s own journey towards living her truth as a lesbian.
Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde
Hairstylist Adam Garland mapped out the look, mirroring Erdem’s vision. “The main look is a strong side-part, creating a graphic, masculine silhouette,” he told Vogue backstage. “The hair is strict and tight at the top, which cascades down into a braid which adds that feminine touch. We used the Authentic Beauty Concept Working Hairspray, which also has great heat protection and allows me to make adjustments later. For the models with shorter hair, we used the Cosmic Blowdry Jelly, which will be released in February. It leaves the hair movable until it’s set and doesn’t give us any flaky residue. Just before the models took off down the runway, we touched up the hair with a styling paste. The texture is creamy and soft, adding that final element of sheen. Erdem focused on playing with structure in the clothes, so it was important to reflect that with the hair too,” Garland explained. Longer afro-textured hair was cornrowed with extensions, creating a sleek pattern close to the scalp.
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